Dry Wall Installation Pros in Krugersdorp

My ceiling in my cottage is sagging. In my bedroom it is already half dismantled. It is raining in and all kinds of tiny animals (mice and lizards) are coming into the main house.

Pvc or Rhinolite ceiling. To be attached to steel structure In three steps. 110m2 of ceiling in total Must include cornices but to keep separate as we still deciding on designs.

The existing ceiling boards on the stoep were rino-lited, without removing the bishop strips. The stoep's size is: 12.4 m long by 2.9 wide. All the ceiling boards have started cracking exactly where the bishop strips are, notwithstanding having covered the bishop strips with a nylon-type of 'gauze', used to cover the bishop strips. Furthermore, the ceiling boards have started sagging, because the nails have pulled out of the brandering (which one cannot see unless you make a hole in the ceiling to see where the brandering runs). This needs to be fixed by using prop jacks and scaffold planks to push the ceiling up against the brandering, and tightened the ceiling up against the brandering (throughout the length of the stoep) by using 32-42 mm dry-wall screws through the ceiling into the brandering and then where the dry-wall screws goes into the ceiling, you must coat the head of the screw with polly filler. Should the ceiling crack in places and a piece/s of the existing rhino light comes off, that small section only to be rino-lited. I also want Meranti flatstrips (approx 450mm wide) fastened over the bishop strips (where the cracks are) with the same screws tightened through the Meranti flatstrips and through the bishop strips into the brandering. No painting thereof needed.

We need to install 5 dry walling offices in our warehouse. The area allocated to this is approximately 54 square metres.

I have the doors, and installer for the doors. I need dry walls partitions that will enclose the doors I have. I will also look at an alternative option for you to fit the doors in if at a better price than current laborer. Cupboards Left cupboard Doors 3x250x 92= (276) Rail length 360 to be cut 280 cm floor from mirror ( length) 80 cm width from wall behind 263 height Right cupboard Doors 2x250x92 =(184) Rail length 240 to be cut 190 cm floor from right wall length 80cm from wall behind (width) 263 (height ) Doors 250 by 92

We lost a two covers for that spacing we normally use to enter inside the roof and small cracks on the PVC ceiling

simple cottage lounge/open plan kitchen, bathroom, bedroom 3.5m widex 11m long 45mcornice simple polystyrene coved 85mm 1 x trap door price a 9mm skim joint ceiling and a barn style pvc ceiling board if they do partition there is 8m partition 2.7m high with two doors to make the bathroom and bedroom.

We are busy with a new development which has a first phase of 8 residential units. Each unit is 40 to 50 square meters. We are looking for someone who can tell us what the cost for insulation of a standardized ceiling will be per square meter.

We bought an old lapidated house. Need info about trusses in the house with probably Spanish reed ceiling on new trusses. Ceiling is 3m high

12 Sq. M normal ceiling on first floor 12 Sq. M suspended ceiling on ground floor

My ceiling in my cottage is sagging. In my bedroom it is already half dismantled. It is raining in and all kinds of tiny animals (mice and lizards) are coming into the main house.

Pvc or Rhinolite ceiling. To be attached to steel structure In three steps. 110m2 of ceiling in total Must include cornices but to keep separate as we still deciding on designs.

The existing ceiling boards on the stoep were rino-lited, without removing the bishop strips. The stoep's size is: 12.4 m long by 2.9 wide. All the ceiling boards have started cracking exactly where the bishop strips are, notwithstanding having covered the bishop strips with a nylon-type of 'gauze', used to cover the bishop strips. Furthermore, the ceiling boards have started sagging, because the nails have pulled out of the brandering (which one cannot see unless you make a hole in the ceiling to see where the brandering runs). This needs to be fixed by using prop jacks and scaffold planks to push the ceiling up against the brandering, and tightened the ceiling up against the brandering (throughout the length of the stoep) by using 32-42 mm dry-wall screws through the ceiling into the brandering and then where the dry-wall screws goes into the ceiling, you must coat the head of the screw with polly filler. Should the ceiling crack in places and a piece/s of the existing rhino light comes off, that small section only to be rino-lited. I also want Meranti flatstrips (approx 450mm wide) fastened over the bishop strips (where the cracks are) with the same screws tightened through the Meranti flatstrips and through the bishop strips into the brandering. No painting thereof needed.